The Burning of Zozobra / Santa Fe's "Old Man Gloom"

If you're planning a trip to Santa Fe New Mexico after the summer season, in early September, there are plenty of things to do in Santa Fe. 

The burning of Zozobra goes all the way back to 1924. Today, it's estimated that some 40,000 people attend this event every year in Santa Fe at Fort Marcy Park. Zozobra is a part of Fiesta in Santa Fe and each year the Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe organizes the event where the fifty foot tall marionette is burned in effigy. Fiesta in Santa Fe commemorates the return of the Spaniards twelve years after their withdrawal from Nuevo Mexico due to the very violent Pueblo Revolt in 1680. The Spaniards return was led by Diego de Vargas and represented a new and more tranquil chapter of Spanish Native American relations. The festival therefore is a very positive event in Santa Fe history. Although compared to the first Fiesta in 1712, Zozobra was a 20th century creation.


The creation of Zozobra and the part it plays in the celebration of Fiesta Santa Fe started in 1924 with the creation of Zozobra by renowned Santa Fe artist Will Schuster. Schuster along with several artist friends developed Zozobra as an addition to the positive Fiesta spirit. The idea certainly caught on and will be approaching it's 100 year milestone. In 1963 the Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe became involved with staging the burning in effigy event and a year later in 1964 the Kiwanis Club took over the entire Zozobra celebration and was given all rights and title to Zozobra from Will Schuster. Today the Zozobra burning is entirely a Kiwanis Club of Santa Fe annual event. There is a nominal fee to attend the burning of Zozobra and the proceeds are given to charitable organizations.


The Zozobra burning kicks off the Fiesta Santa Fe event which begins the weekend after Labor Day. The burning of Zozobra signifies the ridding of "old man gloom", which is exemplified in the fifty foot tall marionette. The Zozobra burning takes place at Santa Fe's historic Fort Marcy Park, a little under a mile north of the plaza. For Santa Fe tourists staying at Santa Fe hotels near the plaza area, Fort Marcy Park is within walking distance to the north and in most cases for those tourists a car ride isn't necessary.


The official story of how Will Schuster came up with the concept of Zozobra is quite interesting. The story is that Schuster drew his idea of Zozobra from a celebration that went on with Mexico's Yaqui Indians. The Yaqui's created an image of Judas which was filled with firecrackers and paraded around town on a donkey before being lit on fire and destroyed. Schuster and a newspaper friend of his reportedly came up with the name "Zozobra" which is defined as"anguish and anxiety" or otherwise known as gloom. Thus Zozobra represents "old man gloom" and the burning is a doorway to the return of happiness and tranquility. It fits very well with the spirit of Santa Fe's Fiesta Week.


It' quite a thing to attend the Zozobra buring each September. The wood and cloth marionette is constructed to move it's arms and head. The figure also growls. Before the structure is burned in effigy there is a ceremony in front of the tall marionette by a "fire spirit dancer" who dressed in a red robe drives away the white sheeted gloom found at the base of the Zozobra figure. The ceremony takes place after sunset so the visual display of the dancing and burning is quite spectacular. As the burning ritual begins toward the last part of the ceremony you can hear attendees shout out the words, "burn him". The Zozobra event has always been a favorite of children and it's noted that children often arrive at Fort Marcy Park in the morning to watch the work being done in erecting the fifty foot tall figure to it's place at the park. 

According to Zozobra's website, zozobra.com , what is called a "gloom box" is placed near the TV stage by the Lost and Found on the day of the burning. People bring notes, legal papers, essentially anything they wish to get rid of and place it inside the gloom box. The gloom box is then placed inside Zozobra just prior to the burning. The gloom box is also available during August at the Santa Fe Reporter offices on Marcy Street.

The 2012 burning of Zozobra will be on Thursday evening September 6th. You may wish to mark your calendar.

(Photos from author's private collection)

Santa Fe's Original Trading Post / Native American Art

Original Trading Post historic building

Trading posts were as important in the old west as were the settlers who migrated there from the east. In fact, history books will point out that the trading posts were in operation prior to the settlers arrival. First of all the trading posts were quite important to the Native Americans who inhabited the southwest before the white migration took place. The trader often was considered a friend of the Indian and at times interceded on their behalf with the U.S. Government. What was of utmost importance was that the trader had credibility with the Native Americans. One of the more historically famous old frontier trading posts was the Hubbell Trading Post on the Navajo reservation in northeastern Arizona. That trading post is also fully operational today and open for business.


When visiting Santa Fe, if you walk a block west of the Santa Fe plaza down San Francisco Street, you will come to what claims to be the original Santa Fe Trading Post. The address is 201 W. San Francisco St. and the pre 1840 trading post building is now protected by Santa Fe's "Preservation Easement Program". Essentially, the program stipulates that the property cannot be demolished, subdivided or obstructed. There of course are several building in and around Santa Fe that are protected structures.


As the trading post business went, Santa Fe was an ideal location to do business. The town of course was a major commerce destination because of the famous Santa Fe Trail. Native American art was a popular attraction. The pueblo Indians produced excellent jewelry and pottery which attracted business from locals and tourists alike. Eventually Santa Fe would grow at the end of the Mexican American War and with the building of the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad.The railroad in many ways helped the local Native American artists to benefit from their unique craft. The Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad not only brought the tourists to town but they also helped the pueblo Indians purchase the tools necessary to better perfect their craft. The La Fonda Hotel which at one time was operated by Fred Harvey in conjunction with the railroad was a major venue for Native American art. These Indian artists displayed and sold their authentic Indian art pieces inside the hotel lobby. Quite a unique sight for first time visitors to the Southwest.

La Fonda Hotel

Turquoise jewelry and Native American jewelry are very popular. These types of jewelry are perfect for enhancing both your formal and casual attire. In Santa Fe you'll have no difficulty finding beautiful hand crafted jewelry produced by skilled Pueblo Indian jewelry artists. 

As most people know who have visited Santa Fe, the Native American artists who sell their art products daily in front of the Palace of the Governors bordering the north side of Santa Fe plaza, display a very large and interesting collection of jewelry, pottery and all types of creative Indian art items. Turquoise, kachinas, pottery, earrings..all are authentic and plentiful. The Native American vendors program at the Palace of the Governors makes sure you get legitimate art rather than fake knock-offs. The Indian  artists licensed to sell there come from pueblos near and far, bringing their uniqueness. In addition, when browsing you also have the opportunity to meet the artists themselves.

While you're marveling over the highly creative art items offered by the Palace of the Governors Indian artists you may also want to go inside and peruse the Palace itself. It's one of Santa Fe's most historic buildings. The Palace of the Governors is thought to be the oldest continuously occupied building in the United States, having house the Spanish government of Nuevo Mexico. It's also been a National Historic Landmark since 1960. The Palace of the Governors chronicles the history of Santa Fe, and the entire New Mexico region. I would also recommend a visit to the New Mexico History Museum which is located in the new building adjoining the north side of the Palace of the Governors. The displays change and this relatively new structure is probably one of the very best history museums in the state.The museum houses native Americans art as well as photos, documentation and unique displays about Santa Fe's development.

The World Famous Indian Market of Santa Fe / August 18-19, 2012

Indian Market began as a partnership between local pueblos and community leaders. Since 1922 Indian Market has been held every year and was aided in the early years from both the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad along with the completion of old Route 66. It is a wonderful display of Native American culture. About half the board of directors of the SWAIA ( Southwestern Association for Indian Arts) are Native Americans and most are artists exhibiting at the event. The artists are Native/Indigenous people from over 100 federally recognized tribes from the United States as well as Canada. Some of these exhibitors have participated for over 60 years. For decades, Santa Fe Indian Market has brought together the most talented Native American artists from the U.S. and Canada and has attracted serious collectors from around the world.

The event is a week long affair which goes on prior to the weekend Indian Market exhibition. During the weekdays there are previews and awards given out with about $100,000 in prize money to be won. Functions that go on during Indian Market include the Friday night press reception, the best of show announcement, a sneak preview of award winning art and a silent auction. Also, the Native Cinema Showcase event is a celebration of film by indigenous directors, producers, writers, actors and cultural activists. The Indian market gala usually takes place at the La Fonda Hotel on the plaza, Santa Fe's oldest hotel. SWAIA also gives out lifetime achievement awards during the weekend event. Another terrrific Indian Market event is the clothing contest held on Sunday morning from 9A-Noon. Children and adults model contemporary and traditional Native American clothing. It's also a great photo opportunity. Entertainment is also presented on the Plaza Stage from 1-4P during the weekend. The artists display and sell their work from booths all around the plaza, which itself is a National Historic Landmark, and adjacent streets. Typically featured are pottery, jewelery, textile weavings, paintings, sculptures, beadwork, basketry, and a variety of other traditional and contemporary art.

Indian Market has grown so much over the years that Native Americans throughout the United States are represented. It's my understanding that it is the largest single event in this country for exhibiting and selling Native American art. Many of the artists have attended the Institute for American Indian Arts..The next date for Indian Market in Santa Fe is the weekend of August 18-19, 2012 with other events held the weekdays prior.

While in Santa Fe during August you may also want to attend the Santa Fe Opera which also attracts people each year from around the country. You'll also be able to visit the many many galleries in Santa Fe including those on the world famous Canyon Road. If you're looking for great restaurants you'll also find these in Santa Fe and there are very good restaurants available to fit any type travel budget. I think you'll find this event a lot of fun for the entire family. Another transportation plus is the New Mexico Rail Runner which can whisk you up to Santa Fe inexpensively and in comfort from the Albuquerque area.


Indian market is a world renown event and you'll no doubt see people in attendance from all over the globe. If possible try to book your hotel early. (Photos public domain and author's private collection)

Saint Francis of Assisi Basilica in Santa Fe

Many would say that the most famous landmark in Santa Fe New Mexico would be the Saint Francis of Assisi Basilica Cathedral just one block east of the plaza. There had been a place of worship at the cathedral's site since the founding of Santa Fe in the the year 1610. The cathedral was constructed by Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy between 1869 and 1886. Prior to this the site was home to an older adobe church. Archbishop Lamy was a very significant figure in 1800's Santa Fe. Today, the settlement about 15 miles southeast of Santa Fe was named in his honer and is now best known as the Santa Fe stop for Amtrak's Southwest Chief train than travels between Chicago and Los Angeles.


A significant contribution to the old adobe church occurred in 1626 when Fray Alonso Benavides brought Our Lady of the Rosary to Santa Fe. The chapel in fact was built at that time for the statue. During the 1680 Pueblo Revolt, the statue was removed, but returned in 1693 during the peaceful return of the Spanish settlers. She was renamed La Conquistadora in honor of the peaceful manner in which it was believed she entered the hearts of the natives.

Another interesting note is that the current cathedral was elevated to the status of Basilica in 2005 by Pope Benedict XVI. Also the patron saint of the diocese of Saint Francis was brought to the cathedral during the 1967 renovations.

In every respect, the story of Santa Fe and the story of New Mexico has everything to do with the establishment of the old Spanish missions. Much has been written about the twenty-one missions built in California during the period of 1765 and 1833. Many of those were either built or inspired by Fray Junipero Serra, the first being the mission in San Diego California built in 1765. On the other hand, the missions in New Mexico including ones in and around Santa Fe were built decades earlier. The Spaniards first traveled to present day New Mexico primarily over two routes. There was the Coronado Expedition in 1540 which arrived from Mexico via present day Arizona. Coronado's expedition was a scouting expedition. It's goal was not to build settlements. In fact, the 1540 expedition was in search of the Seven Cities of Gold which Coronado and others heard so much about from the Indians in Mexico. 

Throughout Spanish rule of the Nuevo Mexico Santa Fe was a center for exploration and mission work. Franciscan friars constructed eleven churches and by 1617 had converted more than 14,000 Native Americans to the Spanish form of Christianity. During the Spanish rule, the event of the most significance was the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The revolt was attributed to the relatively harsh rule of both the Spanish military and their friars. In their quest to colonize the region and convert the Indian to Christianity, many strict rules were put in place as well as punishments for disobeying. The native Americans were forced to build churches on the very spot where their traditional kiva was located. They were also forced to work to aid the Spanish commercial interests rather than tending to their own pueblos. Mostly because of this denigration and prohibition of their traditional religion, many of the Pueblo people kept a latent hostility toward the Spanish. The year 1680 was when all of this came to a head. The result was a coordinated attack on everything Spanish. During this revolt the majority of the friars were slain. The Spaniards were forced to withdraw from the entire region and fled back south along the Rio Grande River. The Spaniards were absent for twelve years when they finally returned for good in 1692. Asa surprise to some, their return was not met with much violence at all. The new governors of the territory dealt with the Indians in a new and kinder way. Although there still was resentment from a few, the Native Americans and the Spaniards continued to live peaceable. It was not until the Mexican Revolt in the early 1800's that the Spaniards were driven out of Nuevo Mexico for the last time.

What is now Santa Fe was first inhabited by Indians as far back as 1050. The Spaniards first settled in northern New Mexico in the year 1598. Don Juan de Onate became the first Governor and Captain-General of New Mexico. The capital then was built in San Juan Pueblo about 25 miles north of Santa Fe. The city of Santa Fe itself was founded by Don Pedro de Peralta, New Mexico's third governor. Peralta named the city, "La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Assisi", or "The Royal City of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi".

Santa Fe is a great vacation destination and St. Francis Basilica is a real treasure for the city and a significant part of it's rich history. (Photos from author's private collection)

Santa Fe's San Francisco Street and Billy the Kid

Strolling around town is one the most popular things to do while visiting Santa Fe New Mexico. Historic sites and landmarks are everywhere. For those interested in old west history, one must see landmark is located just a few blocks west of the plaza. Walk west down San Francisco Street and you'll come upon a plaque on the side of a building on the south side of the street. This plaque marks the site of an old Santa Fe jail that at one time, and probably a few times, house the infamous Billy the Kid. His real name has been disputed for over a century. Depending on the source the Kid's real name was either Henry McCarty or William Henry Bonney. What is somewhat agreed upon is that he was born in Brooklyn New York. The other agreed upon fact is that the Kid spent his teen years living in Santa Fe.

Billy the Kid was a well known outlaw during the 1870's who gained a lasting reputation during what was called the Lincoln County Wars between 1876-1878. Lincoln County was at the time a vast area comprising what is now southeastern New Mexico. In fact, it comprised all of southeastern New Mexico. Today, the area comprises several different counties. The Lincoln County war was essentially a bloody feud between to factions operating in the town of Lincoln. One faction which were prosperous merchants had been entrenched for years and pretty much controlled politics. They also had lucrative contracts providing the military with supplies. This was the Murphy-Dolan group. The other was the McSween -Tunstall group who were also merchants and were trying to unseat the incumbents.


Sporadic gunfire and bloodshed between the two groups went on for a long time. Both sides had hired guns in their employ. Sheriff William Brady was shot and killed during this time and the shooter was said to be Billy the Kid who was aligned with the McSween group. The Lincoln County War was thought to be the event which turned the Kid into an outlaw. Also, a lawyer named Chapman, representing the McSween group was gunned down in the streets of Lincoln allegedly by gunmen of the Murphy faction.


Eventually the Lincoln County war ended in 1878 largely by the intervention of federal troops, many of which were the Buffalo Soldiers, stationed at nearby Fort Stanton. There were many arrests of which the most notable was the arrest of Billy the Kid by then Sheriff Pat Garrett. Garrett arrested the Kid for the murder of sheriff William Brady and brought him up to Santa Fe and jailed him in the old jail which reportedly in the building pictured left. This site is also near the historic Lensic Theater on San Francisco Street.


After Billy was transported to Santa Fe where he spent three months in jail in 1880 and then sent to a town in southern New Mexico to stand trial for the Brady killing. He was found guilty and sentenced to hang. He was then transported over to Fort Sumner in Lincoln county and jailed. As the Kid had done numerous times he found a way to escape from the jail. He actually had quite a reputation for jail breaks. Once again sheriff Pat Garrett was on his trail. This culminated on July 14, 1881. on this date Billy the Kid was killed sheriff Pat Garret. There is dispute in how the Kid was killed. Was he shot in a fair fight or shot in the back? That question will probably never be answered with any certainty. What was ironic was that Pat Garrett and Billy the Kid were at one time good friends. Another ironic thing about the Kid was that while he was a hunted fugitive, many of the Mexicans in New Mexico held him in high regard and offered him assistance while on the run.


When you stroll around the adobe structured streets of Santa Fe New Mexico, you may want to see this historic site for yourself. 

The Historic Santa Fe Train Depot and the Railyard District

The Santa Fe Train Depot on Guadalupe Street was a station for the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad. The station connected Santa Fe to Lamy New Mexico via an 18 mile spur line since 1880. The spur line was built to connect to the railroad's main line which had a station in Lamy. The steep grade from Lamy up to Santa Fe discouraged the early surveyors. Nevertheless, the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad had great success in promoting Santa Fe as a first class and unique American southwest tourist destination.

Santa Fe Depot

The AT&SF continued their passenger operations on the spur line until the Interstate Highway system was built. At that point the passenger loads to Santa Fe were not cost efficient. People were taking top the highways with their new cars and on the constantly improving highway system. The railroad replaced the spur line operation with motorcoaches for the short ride to Santa Fe. 

The Santa Fe depot was also the terminus for a narrow gauge line that ran to the north. The Denver and Rio Grand Railroad had built a line south from Antonito Colorado to Espanola New Mexico. In fact, the D&RG essentially built Espanola by selling lots on the property they owned. The fact that the line only went south to Espanola, about 25 miles north of Santa Fe, did not sit well with Santa Fe residents, especially since the AT&SF bypassed Santa Fe proper due to the terrain. In response, Santa Fe built a narrow gauge line northward to Espanola. There ended up being about six years worth of delays because of contracts the D&RG had about how far down in New Mexico they could lay tracks. This was similar to the spur line built to Lamy in the south but was narrow gauge, meaning the distance between the rails was shorter than standard rail widths. The narrow gauges were three feet across. Santa Fe's effort would end up delayed about six years because of agreements the D&RG had as to how far into New Mexico they could lay track. Eventually the line was completed down to Santa Fe on October 21, 1886. In 1889, the section down to Santa Fe was officially taken over by the D&RG. The D&RG Railroad's line going south into New Mexico from Antonito was nicknamed "The Chili Line".

SFS Railroad Coach Car

In 1903 Santa Fe got itself another railroad. This one was the New Mexico Central Railway and it was a standard gauge system. The line ran from Santa Fe to Torrance New Mexico.


The D&RG Railroad's Chili Line took big financial hits during the years of the Great Depression. They announced their intention to abandon the line in 1939 and after government hearings (which were necessary to abandon a route at that time) the line carried it's last train on September 1, 1941.


The spur line has remained intact and today the line is a popular tourist route. Scheduled passenger rail was began again in the 1990's with the Santa Fe Southern Railway's purchase of the freight-only Santa Fe spur. The purchase included the depot. Today, tourists can take a fun and scenic ride in 1920's rail coaches on the spur line which is over 125 years old. What some people might not realize is that the Santa Fe Southern also carries freight to help serve the community. The train depot is in the Railyard District of Santa Fe which has grown and developed into both a popular tourist and residential area all within walking distance of the plaza. Many terrific restaurants in the district including Tomasita's, Zia's and Cowgirls.

Silver Lounge car

When you visit Santa Fe you may want to consider taking a fun ride down to Lamy on the Santa Fe Southern Railroads excursion train. The ride is about one hour each way with a short layover at Lamy. You can ride in the luxurious 1920's coach cars or ask about a ride in their 1950's era luxury lounge silver car. The train depot has many historic railroad artifacts and an excellent gift shop with some one of a kind items.


The train station is located at 410 S. Guadalupe Street in Santa Fe. The reservation number is 505-989-8600.

The Oldest House in America / Barrio de Analco Santa Fe

Oldest House, 2011

When you visit Santa Fe be certain to take a short stroll up the Old Santa Fe Trail to De Vargas Street. The adobe structure located just east of the Old Santa Fe Trail is recognized as the oldest structure in the United states. There is a bit of controversy regarding this distinguished title however the owners of the structure located at 215 East De Vargas Street is duly recognized by the city of Santa Fe. The structure was reportedly built in 1646 and has been standing on this site through Spanish, Mexican and United States rule. The other two structures in the United States which claim a similar title are the Gonzalez-Alvarez House in St. Augustine Florida and the Fairbanks House in Dedham Massachusetts.

The area where the house is located is also the oldest neighborhood in Santa Fe, Barrio de Analco. This is a noted Santa Fe Historic District and is home to several other significant structures including the oldest church in America, the Chapel of San Miguel. This chapel is recognized as the oldest continuously occupied church in the U.S. built in 1626. Also at 132 East De Vargas Street is the Gregorio Crespin House. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Gregorio Crespin House was built in 1720 and is now used for various community events.

When you visit Santa Fe be certain to add the Barrio de Analco area to your trip planner. It's an opportunity to see the type of architecture during the very first years of Santa Fe's existence. Be sure to take your camera along for some excellent pictures.

A Visit To Canyon Road / Santa Fe's Gem

For decades, artists and art lovers have visited Canyon Road, Santa Fe’s art gallery district. There is no place else that you can find the type and quality of art that Canyon Road galleries offer. It's the destination for international art collectors and every art collectors dream. 

Canyon Road offers the largest concentration of galleries found in the city. It's also one of the prettiest places in Santa Fe. Tourists flock to Canyon Road by the thousands and enjoy both the galleries and the several very unique dining stops. The traditional adobe structures, winding road and mountain backdrop afford many great picture taking opportunities.

Santa Fe is known for it's unique art galleries. In fact, it has more galleries than any other city it's size. The city and the surrounding areas have a high concentration of artists. For many years they have come to Santa Fe to capture the beauty of the natural landscape. One of the most popular southwestern artist of the 20th century, Georgia O'Keefe, made the Santa Fe area her home. Canyon Road really began as a residential neighborhood. All structures were built in accordance with the local Hispanic and Native American methods which was adobe and included courtyards. . Canyon Road is a long, narrow road that leads right up to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains which border the east of Santa Fe.The entire area was filled with artists and when Santa Fe grew to be a major tourist destination, Canyon Road grew right with it. 


The growth of the Santa Fe art community really began as a result of the Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad's promotion of the southwest as a tourist destination. The railroad hired two artists to visit the southwest and put it's natural beauty on canvas. The Fred Harvey Company which was closely attached to the AT&SF managed the La Fonda Hotel which had been purchased by the railroad. Fred Harvey and the railroad also offered guided tourist cars that took visitors to the many historic sites and pueblos surrounding Santa Fe. As more and more visitors came to Santa Fe so did the artists and today it is one of the finest and largest art communities in the world.

The Farolito Walk is an open house event held every Christmas Eve starting at dusk and is a popular draw for thousands of people. A farolito is also referred to as a "lumineria" which is a small paper bag with a candle inside. It's something you see quite a lot of in Santa Fe. The Christmas farolito walk also includes the beautiful sounds of Christmas carols. If you are visiting Santa Fe at that time of year, it's an event you don't want to miss. It's about the closest thing you'll attend that is everything Santa Fe. Plan your trip early because the road and some surrounding roads will be closed down to vehicular traffic sometime before dark.

Santa Fe galleries on Canyon Road display a wide range of art including Native American art, early 20th century art by members of New Mexico's famous art colonies, traditional representational art, and contemporary and abstract art. 


When you visit Santa Fe be sure to include the Canyon Road galleries on your New Mexico trip planner. 


Canyon Road Information and Directions